Sometimes Even Veterinarians Go ICK!

 

Post by Zoe Forward, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (canine/feline)

(Disclaimer: This is for entertainment)

I’ve been at this job for almost fourteen years (I can’t believe it’s been that long either) and I’ve experienced the gross, the messy, and the smelly (to the point of throw your nose into mutiny smelly).  My family can attest to this as they are immune to the gross being discussed at the dinner table. In fact, my four year-old takes avid interest in diarrhea blow-out stories. I can’t say I’m proud of that, but it’s the first thing he asks to hear about when I come home. Due to his fascination with the subject, he recently declared his intent to follow in my footsteps into this profession – this coming from the kid that still isn’t sure about picking up a fishing worm. Well, maybe he’s got a bit of his mom’s “ick” on that.

Even though I have a high tolerance for that which would make most think, “No way, I’m dealing with that,” every once in a while I’m hit with a true case of the OMGs. Each of us as veterinarians has our one or two things that exceed our gross-tolerance meter. When I see it, I’m not going to stop examining  your pet to jump away with my hands waving and scream, “Oh, s---!”  But, believe me, I’m screaming on the inside. There’s one particular issue that makes my palms sweat and my heart rate skyrocket. So, what is it that makes my innerds tighten into macrame knots?  No, it’s not smelly bloody diarrhea disasters or pets with horrendous wounds or broken limbs or vomit messes or ears with an oozing infection. It’s those little off-white creepy crawlies called maggots. If you ever see an infestation of these guys in a pet’s wound (the sight, the sound, the destruction), you will be forever altered. I hope you avoid that shock. If you suspect it’s there, then I recommend not looking. Bring it to us.

Side note: I remain baffled by those in human medicine that choose to use these creatures in a “good” way to debride wounds. Oh sure, they’ll eat up the dead and the infected tissue, but they’re not going to stop there. They'll eat up the good and the healthy. These are destructive little monsters. They’re not like a super Sci Fi movie monster that’s going to attack you just for getting close (they like being hidden in the wound), but they will  take advantage of the weak, the young, the debilitated, and, well, anything infected. Personally, I'd never volunteer for maggot wound care assistance simply on the basis of them being what they are. But I do digress.

The most common myasis infestations (that’s the technical and much easier to digest word than maggot) are in dogs with hind limb weakness (especially from back trauma) and rabbits – especially if housed outdoors during warmer months when fly strike is common. If I find these little creepies, this it's a team effort to treat with the key words being: containment and removal. Any vet will tell  you there is not much that kills a maggot. There’s no spray or injection. There is one drug that, if the tablet is crushed, helps. I’ve tried everything over the years. Treatment is about getting every single one of them out and preventing any from getting away. Most pets live, which is the good news. But this is one of those few issues that once your vet team treats it, you need to give that team a huge thank you. It’s tough, it’s gross, and we’re professionals...but a lot of us have that super ick over this.


In the spirit of prevention to avoid this issue entirely, be careful if your pet is high risk in the warmer months and left outdoors. If you have rabbits housed outside, keep fly prevention devices in the area (fly paper works). All of us would be forever grateful to never see this. But when it appears again (and it will...we always get a couple of cases a year), my team and I will handle it. Like every vet, I will shove aside my ick factor and give your pet top notch care with a smile. But remember on the inside I’m still screaming like a four year-old: OMG! OMG!

  
 

You need to check my Cat’s Blood pressure?

Post by Zoe Forward, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (canine/feline)
Carolina Pets Animal Hospital

Cats get high blood pressure problems(hypertension) just like people. We may not detect our aging furry friend has this issue from her behavior at home. The signs are subtle, and in many cases may be chalked up as "getting older." What are red flags that should make you suspect blood pressure issues? Your older feline may seem less social, grumpy, or may spend more time hiding. Sound like common behaviors in most older felines? That's the problem!

In people hypertension is associated with profound headaches. Therefore, we suspect cats experience the same problem, which leads to those behaviors listed above.  

What causes high blood pressure in cats? Usually hypertension occurs secondary to another problem such as kidney failure or heart disease or overactive thyroid disease. However, some older cats develop primary high blood pressure, which means it is not due to any other issue.

 

Treatment? Antihypertensive medication is the answer. We also must to treat any underlying condition (such as heart disease or kidney disease). Of course, this sounds daunting – giving your cat medication every day for the rest of her life, but this is one medication that can easily be compounded into anything from a transdermal gel that you rub on the inside of her ear to a liquid to a chewy treat. The pill, itself, is quite small and easy to hide in food for most cats (and inexpensive this way).

Outlook for the hypertensive cat? In cats where the only problem is hypertension, then this can usually be controlled with medication and regular blood pressure monitoring. If there is an underlying problem the the overall prognosis for your cat depends on that problem. For example, hyperthyroidism is also usually straight forward to treat and control, but chronic kidney failure can be trickier to control and will progress over time.

Prevention? Your cat’s blood pressure should be checked twice a year when over the age of 9 years old.

WHAT'S BEHIND EVERY GOOD VETERINARIAN?

Guest Post by Dr. Elizabeth Broel

 

Disclaimer:  All animals featured in this post made full recoveries.  Most of the people did too.

I've done a lot of cool stuff in my veterinary career to date.  

 

Worked on draft mules in Montana? Done it.  

 

 Pulled various sharp objects out of pet faces?  Oh yeah, done lots of that.

Removed this....

 

From this stomach?

 

How could you not love a face like this?

Yep.  Done that.  A lot.  Labs love to eat things they shouldn't.

 

 

Saved Bambi after being hit by a car?  Yep, done that too.

 

 

 

 

My point? I've seen and done a lot of stuff. But this awesome-ness is not a one woman show. Who is always by my side?  Who helps me keep my sanity?  Who always has my back?  That’s right: a veterinary technician. 

 

 

 

 

The Staff

 

 

WELCOME TO

CAROLINA PETS ANIMAL HOSPITAL

 

 

 FROM THE FRONT DESK

 

TO OUR TREATMENT AREA

 

WE ARE ALWAYS HAPPY TO SEE YOU AND YOUR PET!

Retractable Leashes: A Dangerous Idea

Article by Sara Enos
Carolina Pets Animal Hospital

Written for Examiner in April of 2011, I covered some of the dangers related to the misuse of retractable leashes. With concern for the growing popularity of this style of leash, it seems appropriate to tackle this topic again to help dog owners avoid a few devastating mistakes.

Originally designed to let owners choose how far a dog can go and offer more freedom for canine companions on walks; retractable leashes are proving to provide a false sense of security and pose a danger to both dog and owner.

There have been thousands of human-related injuries reported from use of retractable leashes such as:

• blindness from the clasps breaking and snapping back to the face
• amputations to fingers when the cord gets wrapped and a dog jerks
• rope burns
• deep cuts

On the canine side, injuries are occurring as well and the results are proving tragic. A not so well-known cause for severe injury from dog fights comes from retractable leashes not capable of holding a dog running full speed. When a dog is running, and the leash is unwinding rapidly, the stop button is often difficult to engage and when it is engaged, it can break fairly easily. In addition, when the dog has reached the end of the leash, the forward momentum paired with the jolt of the lead coming to a sudden halt on the owners end, often causes the lead to snap and break where it is connected to the handle. The end result leaves the owner with a potentially irreversible injury and a dog given the ability to commence attack.

Retractable leashes prove to be constantly cumbersome in vet hospitals. Owners and dogs often become entangled when other dogs are entering or exiting the clinic. Countless cases of entanglement have resulted and staff finds themselves having to cut the dogs free from their entwined leads. Getting two dogs untangled that have come to a disagreement during the commotion can prove dangerous to the pets as well as the owners and staff trying to untangle them.

In the case one would need to quickly pull their pet away from danger, (car, bicycle, aggressive dog, away from cliff while hiking) doing so with a retractable leash proves frustrating, slow, and often ends undesirably without complete cooperation or ability from the dog.

From a safety perspective, retractable leashes offer very little control over a pet. One never knows if the next dog walking by is friendly or not; it is important to be in control of your pet at all times not only just for their well-being and safety, but for the well-being and safety of other dogs as well.

Perfect walking position for canine companions

 - Diane Jessup

Safer alternatives to retractable leashes for safe areas of play are lunge lines, training leads, or simply allowing your dog off-leash to exercise and play in a fenced area.

Overall, the safest way to leash your pet is a thin, comfortable lead, (such as a leather lead or soft nylon lead) that positions your pet by your side for walks in the neighborhood, veterinary visits, or trips to your favorite local pet stop.

Anal Sacs - Will my dog ever stop scooting?

Post by Zoe Forward, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (canine/feline)



Is your dog scooting and licking at her hind end? Perhaps she is emitted a foul odor reminiscent of dead fish? That indicates the anal sacs are irritated or too full. Maybe you already know this and find you need to have your dog in to the vet every 4 to 6 weeks to have those glands expressed? Sometimes the anal sacs experience an overproduction of secretion that leads to this scenario. But expressing them on a routine basis when your dog is not showing signs they bother her may not always be the best plan. If this is a NEW problem, then your dog may have an anal sac infection that needs medication.

THE BASICS

What are the anal sacs? Popularly called "anal glands", these are two small pouches located on either side of the anus at approximately 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. The sacs are lined with numerous specialized sebaceous glands that produce a foul smelling secretion.

What's their function? The anal sac secretion acts as a territorial marker or could be seen as a dog's "calling card." The sacs are present in both male and female dogs, and are normally emptied when a dog defecates. This is why dogs are so interested in smelling each other's stool.


WHAT TO DO?
NEW PROBLEM: Bring your dog in for an exam with her veterinarian. She may have an infection that needs treatment. If not, then you can discuss long-term strategy to help your dog naturally express her anal sacs.

OLD PROBLEM, NOT INFECTION: Treating overproduction of anal sac fluid can be handled either by frequent manual evacuation of the anal sacs, or increasing fiber therapy. If frequent anal sac expression is chosen, please remember that the more often the dog's anal sacs are expressed, then the more likely she will be to need them expressed. The body will adjust to frequent expression and produce more secretion. This is not an ideal scenario.

Please phone to consult with us on how to increase your dog's fiber therapy, if you think this is what your dog needs: (704)220-0226.

WHEN IS IT TIME TO GO TO THE VET?

Guest post by Jessica Fellers, DVM

Sometimes it is tough to know when to make an appointment with your veterinarian for your pet. What symptoms should cause the most concern or even warrant a trip to the emergency clinic in the middle of the night? The most important thing you need to know is ask, ask, ask. Call us at (704) 220-0226 with any questions you may have.  It's always better to make an appointment, have your pet examined, and find out that your pet is fine. Peace of mind is of great value!

There are times when it is obvious that emergency care is necessary, such as traumatic injury, severe bite wounds, difficulty breathing, seizures, collapse etc. But what are some things that you can do, to help you to decide, when you aren’t so sure?

GUIDELINES FOR AT HOME TO KNOW WHEN TO HAVE YOUR PET SEEN:

If your pet allows you to safely take a rectal temperature with a digital thermometer, apply a small amount of petroleum jelly, and gently insert only the small metal tip. Normal values are between 100F to 102.5F for cats and dogs. Temperatures above or below these values indicate your pet needs to be checked by your veterinarian ASAP. A dry or wet nose is of little value. Also, if you can safely lift your pet’s lip and check their gums, they should appear pink, not red, yellow or white/pale. You can also gently press on the gums with your fingertip. It will briefly turn white, but should return to pink in less than 2 seconds. Three seconds or greater is a concern.

If your pet has ingested anything other than their normal food and treats, please call to find out if treatment is necessary. Items of significant concern include chocolate (especially dark), macadamia nuts, grapes, raisins, xylitol-containing chewing gums, homemade play dough, paintballs, fertilizer, rat poison, etc. Some of these can result in death if not addressed immediately. Please bring in the bag, wrapping, label, etc. for the product. This can be a critical piece of information.

Never give human medications without consulting a veterinarian. If you feel tempted to open your medicine cabinet, give us a call first. If there is an accidental ingestion of medications or supplements, please call to be sure they are safe.

A few instances of vomiting or diarrhea are not likely to be a concern unless your pet is not acting normally. If there are more than 2-3 episodes it is time to make an appointment.

 Anytime your pet has difficulty urinating, especially male cats, please bring them in immediately. This may also appear as vocalizing or even hiding.

Pain may not always be easy to assess. Some symptoms include restlessness, panting, not eating, whining, loss of appetite, acting withdrawn, aggression, or hiding.

Injuries to the eye should be taken seriously and treated quickly. Look for squinting, tearing, cloudiness, rubbing, or sudden loss of vision.

Since our pets can’t tell us when they don’t feel well, we have to be knowledgeable of signs that they need our help. Your pet’s safety and your peace of mind are important to us. Call us with your questions, we are here to help.