Thunderstorm Phobia!

By Zoe Forward, DVM, DABVP (canine/feline)

We might love a good storm, but our dog might not.

We suspect there are genetic factors that underlie a dog’s susceptibility to thunderstorm phobia. In people genetics contribute to fears. Studies show that identical phobias (e.g. fear of heights) will develop in identical twins raised completely apart. However, negative experiences can clearly trigger the development of fears. Specifically, personal experience and observational learning (witnessing another fearful dog or person) may be involved.

Storm phobia responses are not just physical, but also emotional and physiological. Physical responses include attempts at escape (flight), finding a safe place, shadowing the owner or hiding. Affected dogs may also pace, pant and whine or bark. Emotional responses include the immeasurable in a dog—the subjective experience of terror. Physiological responses include activation of the autonomic and endocrine systems triggering high heart rate, pupil dilation, salivation, sweating (paws only) and increase in stress hormones.

The Static Charge Theory. Storm phobia doesn’t happen overnight, though. Many owners will comment their dogs first became afraid of storms when less than 1 or 2 years of age, but most do not seek help from veterinarians (or veterinary behaviorists) until the dog is considerably older (usually between 5 and 9 years old).  The reason is that most owners say their dog used just be apprehensive, but something later on exacerbated this phobia to have other problem (such as those noted above). Some people can even name a particular date when things changed.

So, why would apprehension change to true terror?  There are a lot of theories. Clearly something unusual happened during that particular storm to make it different from all the rest. One interesting theory by veterinary behaviorist Dr. Nicholas Dodman is that dogs might have received a painful static electric shock during that one triggering storm.  Many fearful dogs will seek safety by climbing into a sink, bath, Jacuzzi, shower pedestal, or squeeze themselves behind toilet tanks or up against metal radiators or pipes during storms. Presumably they have found by trial and error that there is some degree of protection in these locations. All of these locations represent electrical grounds that would dissipate any built-up static charge. Owners often remark that they sometimes get static shocks from their dogs if they touch them during a storm. We know static fields build up during storms and some animals become statically charged during storms. Mast tips of sailing ships can glow with “St. Anthony’s Fire” during storms; airplane wings glow with static discharge for the same reason when planes fly though electric storms; and the horns of Texas longhorn cattle can glimmer at the tips like candles during thunderstorms, often heralding a stampede.

 
How to Treat Storm Phobia?

Desensitization doesn’t work well.  Desensitization is one of the key components of behavior therapy for pets. We try to make the dog less sensitive to the problem/situation that stress the dog out.  You might, therefore, think that playing a CD of thunderstorms should help, but it won’t.  Thunderstorm fear is complex and not due simply to the sound of thunder that, but also due to darkening skies, rain, wind and some say perhaps changes in barometric or static electric fields. Even odors may be indirectly involved; for example, oxides of nitrogen or ozone produced by lightning during storms. Many storm-phobic dogs are not frightened of other loud noises and the reverse is also true. Many storm-phobic dogs sense that storms are on the way well before we do, presumably picking up some subtle cues that humans are incapable of perceiving. Whether these cues involve changes in barometric pressure, static electric fields, odors or some other prompt has yet to be determined.
Second, the key rule of desensitization therapy is to eliminate and/or control exposure to the feared stimulus (storms, in this case). That is tricky to achieve in most geographical locations in the United States.


What does work:
1. Create a safe room for your dog to go during storms. Find a safe place where the dog can go to get away from all aspects of the storm. A basement, if available, is a great place to start. The safe place should have small or no windows so the storm cannot be witnessed by the dog. Even small windows should be blocked off using cardboard inserts or fitted with thick, lined curtains. Basements have the advantage of being semi-subterranean, insulated against sound by think concrete walls and surrounding soil.  Equip the safe room with a solid sided crate (door open), water, food, toys and treats. Turn up the lights to mask stray lightning flashes that might escape the window shielding.  Play classical music at a reasonable volume to drown out any remote sounds of thunder.

Introduce your dog to the safe place during a non-storm time and have some fun there playing. Later, he may take himself to the safe place when he first senses an impending storm. A doggy door may have to be fitted to make the room accessible at all times, even when you’re not there.


2. Use a storm jacket.  There are many storm jackets on the market. Studies show they help in 50% of dogs.  The Storm Defender has an anti-static lining and the new model is tight fitting, too, delivering a sort of ambulatory hug. Put on the jacket at first hint of a storm approaching.  The AnxietyWrap is another therapeutic jacket that works by swaddling pressure alone.  Another storm jacket is the Thundershirt. Finally, a Calming Cap may be helpful in some cases to attenuate visual aspects of storms.




3. Medication.  Of course, if all else fails, medication can save the day. Reconcile (Fluoxetine) is a first choice “background medication” to stabilize storm-phobic dogs’ mood during the thunderstorm season. Dogs are given this drug once daily throughout storm season. Sometimes another drug can be added in during especially violent storms. Xanax (alprazolam) is often used for this purpose but some dogs might have an unacceptable high level of paradoxical excitement reactions to this anxiolytic drug. Other choices might include  Klonopin (clonazepam) or clonidine.

 Information obtained from articles by Nicholas Dodman, BVMS, Dipl. ACVB.

 

Common Dangers that Pose a Threat to Pets on the 4th of July

Courtesy of Pet Poison Hotline

 

 

Fireworks. In addition to being loud and scary to pets when lit, unused fireworks can be toxic if ingested. Many contain hazardous chemicals like chlorates that harm red blood cells and the kidneys, soluble barium salts that cause life-threatening drops in potassium, and sulfur and coloring agents that contain dangerous heavy metals. Gastrointestinal issues like vomiting, a painful abdomen and bloody diarrhea can result. The severity of the reaction will depend on the type of firework and the amount ingested. In severe cases, pets can suffer tremors or seizures, along with acute kidney failure, bone marrow changes, shallow breathing and jaundice. When lighting off fireworks, its best to keep pets indoors, away from the noise and risk for thermal injury.

 

Barbecue Foods. We love cookouts, but they can have the opposite effect on pets. While rich savory meats aren’t poisonous to dogs or cats, they can cause anything from mild vomiting and diarrhea to full-fledged fatal pancreatitis, especially in sensitive dog breeds like miniature schnauzers, Yorkshire terriers, and Shetland sheepdogs. Corn-on-the-cob can also cause issues ranging from vomiting and diarrhea, to forming a severe foreign body in the dog’s intestines requiring surgery. Desserts made with xylitol, a sugar-free sweetener, can also be harmful, causing an acute drop in blood sugar and even liver failure. Likewise, foods containing grapes and raisins can result in severe, fatal acute kidney failure when ingested by dogs.

 

 

Pool Chemicals. Chlorine is a common pool chemical. When ingested in its concentrated form (e.g., powder, tablets, etc.) prior to being placed in the pool, it can result in severe corrosive injury to both humans and pets. Burns to the eyes, skin, mouth, and esophagus can develop, and result in permanent injury. Once diluted appropriately in the pool water, chlorine no longer poses a corrosive risk. Always keep pool chemicals and cleaners safely out of the reach of pets. 

 

Salt Water. If celebrating by the ocean, be aware of salt poisoning. If large amounts of ocean water are ingested while playing on the beach, hypernatremia (an elevated salt level) can occur, resulting in vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, excessive thirst or urination, tremors, seizures, coma and even death. Instead of allowing dogs to drink from the ocean, provide them with fresh water. If salt water is ingested, immediate veterinary treatment is recommended.

Feline Idiopathic Cystitis: It’s NOT a Urinary Tract Infection!

 

Guest post by Amy Auwater, DVM

Your cat has started having signs that might look like a urinary tract infection: squatting to urinate in unusual places outside of the litterbox, making frequent trips in and out of the litterbox, straining to urinate, vocalizing, licking the urinary opening, and/or producing small amounts of blood-tinged urine (if there is no production of urine the kitty is male, he could have an obstruction which is a medical emergency!).  All of these signs are related to pain and discomfort in the lining of the urinary tract.  The fact is that in young-middle aged healthy cats (especially male), it is actually rare to get a true urinary tract infection.  Only 1-5% of cats with these signs will have a true urinary tract infection.

Other things that can cause similar signs might be bladder stones (20% of affected cats), trauma to the urinary tract (1-5%) or urinary cancer (1-5%).  A urinalysis is recommended to rule-out underlying problems, and bloodwork or x-rays may be indicated.  Most cats will not have any underlying problem found, despite extensive testing.  These cats have Idiopathic Cystitis.  This is one of the most common problems that we see in our feline patients.

What causes Idiopathic Cystitis?  Well, just like many things in life, it is multifactorial!  This is more likely to be a systemic disorder induced by stress than a primary bladder problem.  You may think your kitty has it pretty easy, but there are actually a lot of things that can stress out a cat!  It may or may not be easy to identify stress in your kitty’s environment, and some cats are more sensitive to stress than others.   Changing schedules, having company over, a new baby or pet in the house, moving furniture, moving to a new house, lack of access to elevated perches or a “safe place,” a stray cat walking outside the window… the list goes on!  An excellent resource is Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine’s website, Indoor Pet Initiative, for more information on stress management and environmental enrichment:  www.indoorpet.osu.edu/cats

Another important factor appears to be diet.  This doesn’t seem to be a condition caused by diet, but it is sensitive to diet.  Cats have evolved to eat a high-protein, high-moisture, low-carbohydrate diet, i.e. most canned foods!  If the majority of the diet consists of dry food, this may unmask or exacerbate signs in sensitive cats.  We recommend feeding your cat a high-quality canned food, or wetting the dry food, and increasing water intake.  Keeping the urine more dilute makes for a healthier feline urinary tract and a happier you!

Medications may be prescribed to help manage acute signs, and these may include pain relievers, anti-spasmodics, sedatives, anti-anxiety medications, or glucosamine/chondroitin supplements.  However, diet modification and environmental enrichment are things that you can do at home!  Often there is no quick fix for the problem, and a solution is found through various trials.  Patience and diligence are key.  Your kitty will thank you!

 

OLDER PET…SHE'S FORGETTING EVERYTHING!   COGNITIVE DYSFUNCTION.

By Zoe Forward, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (canine/feline)

Does it seem like your cat is having “senior moments” such as forgetting where she is?  Is your dog gazing off into the horizon or forgetting which side of the door to go out of?  These are signs of cognitive dysfunction.  Other signs might include house-training problems, apparent memory loss, disorientation, confusion, wandering, getting stuck in corners, sleep disturbances (waking at the wrong time, sleeping unusually deeply, night pacing), restlessness, barking, separation anxiety, panting, drooling, obsessive licking, etc.

Just because your pet is getting old doesn’t mean we need to stand on the sidelines and let him get old. There are things we can do to intervene and improve your pet’s ability to function and improve its quality of life.

What is Cognitive Dysfunction? Cognitive dysfunction is a decline in learning, memory or awareness due to age-related changes in the brain and is reflected by varying states of dementia. To us the problems seem psychological, but the root of the problem is actually physical. Over time the brains of dogs and cats undergo oxidative damage, neuronal loss and the development of B-amyloid plaques. Although human brains with Alzheimer’s disease develop other pathology that is not seen in canine or feline brains, they also develop these B-amyloid plaques.

Unfortunately, we do not have an easy test to diagnose this problem. As of right now this is a diagnosis of exclusion which means we rule out all other issues that could cause the signs seen and if nothing else is found then we assume it is cognitive dysfunction.

How do we help?

Step One: Diet. Specialists recommend putting the pet on an oxidant rich diet such as (for dogs) Hill’s prescription diet b/d or Purina One Vibrant Maturity 7+ Senior formula.  Many also recommend fish oil because omega fatty acids might be good for the brain.

Step Two: Drug therapy. Selegiline which is used to treat human dementia, is the only medication with a veterinary indication to treat cognitive dysfunction.

Step Three: Supplements.  There are several supplements that have been shown to improve cognitive dysfunction including:

-          Neutricks (Quincy Animal Health), which contains apoaequorin

-          Novofit (Virbac Animal Health), which contains S-adenosyl-L-methionine (SAMe)

-          Activait (Vet Plus Ltd) or Senilife (CEVA Animal Health), which contain phosphatidylserine and a mix of antioxidants

Step Four: Exercise.  Exercise is an important component of the program. Taking your dog for a leash walk enables him to use all his senses, but make sure to understand his limitations. That means if he has terrible arthritis, then don’t turn a simple walk into an endurance contest.  Just don’t overdo it. Staying active helps dementia.  Mental exercises also help – this means training, food manipulation toys and games.

Nighttime problems (dogs)

Many dogs seem to have more trouble at night. They sleep all day and are awake all night. They pace. They make noise. They might be anxious or uncomfortable.  For dogs, use of the supplement melatonin can help to promote sedation and is an antioxidant.  As well for dogs adding in the supplement Anxitane (suntheanine, Virbac) can help anxiety.

It’s important to remember Cognitive dysfunction is a progressive problem that cannot be cured. We have more hope of improving your pet’s life if we catch this issue in the early phases. If the disease has progressed, then most medications and supplements will not provide much improvement.

 

Information provided by Veterinary Practice News (vol 25, Number 6) and veterinarypartner.com.  Photo istock.com.

Litter Box Blues

By Zoe Forward, DVM, Dipl. ABVP (Canine/Feline)

 

She’s been going in the box for upteen years and now all of a sudden she’s peeing all over the house!  This is a common problem. It is frustrating. And in most of us with busy households, we just don't have time to deal with another crisis.  This problem is the number one reason cats are relinquished to shelters.  So, why do they do it?
 
The most common reason a cat might refuse to use the box is that he perceives the box to be dirty.  Cats have a very keen sense of smell and, although the box may seem clean to you, it doesn’t to the cat.  Have you ever been inside a rest stop restroom and upon one sniff think about going in the bushes along the side of the road?  Most people on average clean their cat’s litter box once or twice a week.  How would you like to use your own bathroom if you only flushed the toilet once a week?

 

STEP ONE: KEEP THE BOX CLEAN

 The single most important thing to do is to keep the litter box clean.  Take the hood off because hooded boxes can create a gas chamber-like effect.  Find the finest scoopable litter possible that is unscented (the scent is there for us, not the cat) and scoop the box daily.  Replace litter daily as needed.  Dump all litter out entirely every other week and clean the litter box, itself, using a diluted lemon juice or vinegar solution to help cut the ammonia odor.  Do not use ammonia-based products to clean the box.  It smells like stale, old urine to the cat.  If you use non-scoopable litter, dump it out every other day.

 

STEP TWO: ENHANCE THE LITTERBOX EXPERIENCE

Do you have enough litter boxes?  You need to have one box per cat plus one.  If you have one cat, you should have two boxes.  Some cats are extremely territorial about their box and may prevent another cat in the household from using the box.  An especially fearful cat may not approach a box because something terrifying is between him and the box, such as a vacuum cleaner.  Therefore, he will eliminate outside the box instead of approaching it.  With two boxes, the problem is solved.

Where is the litter box located?  Cats don’t like to have their litter box close to their food or bedding.  They like to have a consistent, private place to do their business.  So, don’t put the box in one of the busiest rooms in the house.  Be careful with boxes in the bathroom.  If a cat gets sprayed by the shower  in the box, then he may refuse to use the box again.  Is the box easy for the cat to get into?  This may be silly, but some people keep the boxes in a closet and then forget to leave the door open! Some obese cats can’t make it over the high edges of a box and might need a doorway.

 

 

STEP THREE: REDUCE STRESS

When cats feel insecure, anxious or stressed they will often express their anxiety by eliminating outside the litter box.  If you immediately punish the cat for not using the litter box, a vicious cycle develops.  The more the cat is punished, the more stressed he becomes.  The more stressed he becomes, the more often he won’t use his litter box.  When you came home and found a puddle outside the box, did you grab the cat, yell, rub his nose in it and then throw him into his litter box?  You might think you are teaching the cat that he is supposed to use his litter box, but the only thing the cat learns from this experience is that you are a deranged maniac!  Sometimes you home and are loving and affectionate, but other times you come home violent.  Unfortunately, this approach cultivates distrust, fear and insecurity. Instead of punishment, find ways to reduce the cat’s stress level and concentrate on rewarding good behavior.

Sometimes a stressful event in the cat’s life may be causing him to eliminate outside the litterbox.  Did you introduce a new person, pet or change homes?  Was there some event that occurred right before he started inappropriately eliminating?

How to reduce that stress? Be sure to spend at least 15 to 20 minutes per day of quality time with the cat that is having the problem.  Bring out the toys and play with things he likes. Or give him attention such as petting or brushing. Or just sit with him quietly in the same room, if that makes him happy. Perhaps, there are a lot of cats in your house and he never gets to be the focus? Then, spend this time in a room with him as the solo cat.

Try one of the pheromone cat products such as the Feliway Diffuser. Use this in the room where he spends the most time.

I’ve cleaned up the box, now how do I get him in it?

Many cats won’t magically start using the box once it’s got the right litter and is located in the right place.  First of all, the cat won’t know that the litter is clean.   The cat will assume it’s the same, old dirty place it’s been for months and go use the restroom where he knows it will be clean.  For example, in the past whenever the cat urinates in the living room or defecates under the piano, you don’t let it sit there for a week.  You cleaned it up promptly.  The cat keeps going back because he knows it’s always clean.  Alternatively, if he was punished by being thrown in the litter box and forced to dig in the litter, the cat avoids the box because he associates it with unpleasant experiences.

To turn this around, you must prove to him that the litter box is clean and pleasant.  Whenever your cat is hungry or in a playful mood, get out a special treat or toy and use it to lure him near the box.  Then, enthusiastically praise and reward your cat when you get near the box.  Within a short time, the cat will get the hang of the game and come towards you and the box.  Work especially hard to call the cat away from areas he has soiled in the past and profusely reward the cat for coming to you.  Now the cat will see that not only is the box clean, but it’s also a very rewarding place to be.  The next step is to reward him when he uses the box.

 

IT’S STILL NOT WORKING!

For severe litter box problems, it may be necessary to confine your cat with a litter box, his toys and bed to one room for a few days.  By confining your cat, he can more quickly learn to use his box.  When you are in the room with your cat and he goes in the box, praise and reward him at that moment.  If you’re not there, the chances are high that he will use the box on his own, provided it’s clean.  If given the choice of linoleum or tile floor, your cat will choose the litter which is absorbable and gives him a better opportunity to bury.  Cats are creatures of habit so confinement is used to help break the cat’s habit of eliminating in inappropriate places.  If he doesn’t have access to these areas, then he doesn’t have the chance to reinforce old habits.

If you are turned off by the idea of confinement, then you probably don’t really understand it.  Maybe you’ve tried it before, went about it the wrong way and had a bad experience or the cat had a bad experience.  If your attitude is that confinement is a prison sentence, then it’s not going to work.  Confinement should be a positive and rewarding training experience.

 

NOTHING IS WORKING, COULD HE HAVE A MEDICAL PROBLEM?

Sometimes a cat will stop using his litter box because he has a medical problem.  Cats are prone to urinary problems.  Common signs of urinary tract disease include urinating small puddles, blood in the urine, straining or vocalizing when urinating, or your cat urinates on cool ceramic surfaces such as sinks, bathtubs or stovetops.  Have your cat evaluated by a veterinarian, if you see these signs.

If your cat had a medical problem, you might find after the problem has been treated, he won’t return to using his litter box.  He may associate the box with a painful experience or he may have developed a habit of urinating outside the box.  You might need to follow some of the above hints to get him to go back into the box.